Garment



M. TODES June 16, 1931.

GARMENT Filed Dec 12, 1930 a 0 an.

' IZZH/e/NO/ 5/ otdzeYba'es Patented June 16, 1931 PATENT OFFICE MOLLIETODES, OF MILWAUKEE, WISCONSIN GARMENT Application filed December 12,1930. Serial No. 501,838.

This invention relates to waistband con-- it is to be understood thatthe invention is not limited thereto.

his one of the objects of'the present invention to provide a waistbandwherein the maj or portion of the stitching is concealed, whichwaistband may be machine sewed and yet have the appearance of a handfinished custom tailored waistband.

Heretofore, in so far as I am aware, it was always necessary, where aVery neat appearing waistband was desired, to sew the same by hand.Machine sewing was precluded due to the fact that machine sewing wasalways thought to necessitate a line of stitching on the exposed side ofthe band. I have discovered that by sewing the various parts of awaistband in a predetermined order the parts may be folded during thesewing operation to permit of machine sewing and, after 2 the parts havebeen sewed as necessary, may be unfolded to conceal the line ofstitching. In the garments of the past the waistband lining was foldedin a different order and it therefore became necessary to sew the partstogether by hand since the folded material precluded machine sewingwhere a neat appearing band was desired. By my improved method thevpreliminary sewing is done before, rather than after, the final foldingof the material, thereby permitting machine stitching.

It is a further object 'of my invention to provide a waistbandconstruction which may be altered to fit a particular wearer and whereinsaid alterations may be made entirely by machine, eliminating all costlyhand sewing operation.

The attainment of the above and further objects of the present inventionwill be apparent from the following specification taken in conjunctionwith the accompanying drawings forming a part thereof.

In the drawings:

Figure 1 is .a fragmentary view showing a portion of a pair of trouserswith the waistband partly sewed in place;

Figure 2 is a fragmentary view showing the manner of folding thematerial preparatory to the next sewing operation;

Figure 3 shows the next step in the sewing of the garment;

Figure 4 is an enlarged view of a portion of Figure 3;

Figure 5 is a fragmentary View showing a completed waistband; and

Figure 6 is a fragmentary view of a portion of a modified form ofwaistband.

Reference may now be, had more particularly to Figure 1 wherein I show aportion 05 of an uncompleted pair of trousers, said view showing theside of the material which is on the inner side of the garment whencompleted. The rear body forming portions are indicated at 1 and 2 andfront body portions are indicated at 3 and 4. The body forming portions1 and 3 are sewed together along a seam 5 and the body forming portions2 and 4c are sewed together along a seam 6. The lower sides of theportions 1, 2, 3, and 4 are leg forming portions and in the completed'garment the edge 7 is secured to the edge 8, all in a manner well knownin the art. A waistband 10 is sewed to the body portions 1 and 3 along aline of stitching 11 and a waistband 12 is sewed to the body portions 2and 4 along a line of stitching 13. Each of these waistbands consists ofan outer layer of lining 14.- and an inner layer of canvas 15 as is wellknown in the art, it being understood, however, that the presentinvention is not limited to the use of such materials for a waistbandsince the band may be formed of any other materials or of any number oflayers without departing from the spirit of the present invention. Thetwo rear body forming portions are sewed together by a row of stitchingindicated at 20, leaving a flap 21 of the body portion 1 and a flap 22of the body portion 2. The line of stitching 20 extends to within aboutof an inch of the outer edge of the waistband indicated by the line 24.The stitching thus far described is generally machine stitching althoughit may be hand stitching if desired.

I refer to form the seam between the ends of t e waistband portions 10and 12 in the following manner: The body portions 1 and 2 are foldedback to back so as to expose on the outer sides, the sides of thematerial that are normally on the inside of the garment. The flapportion 22 is then bent back as indicated in Figure 2 and thereafter thewaistband portion 12 is folded down into position as indicated in Figure2. The portion 25 of the waistband which corresponds to the flap 22 isfolded against the flap 22 and beneath the main portion of the waistband12. This brings all of the waistband 12 to the right of the row ofstitching 20 as seen in Figure 2. The waistband portion 10 is thenfolded over the edge 24 and over the waistband portion 12. This isillustrated in Figure 3. This substantially turns the waistband portion10 inside out with respect to the body portion 1 of the garment. The end26 of the waistband portion 10 now lies to the left of the seam 20. Thecorner of the waistband portion 10 is then turned back at an angle asindicated at 28 and thereafter the portion 26, including the turned backcorner 28, is machine stitched to the flap 21 along a line of stitchingindicated at 30. This line of stitching is to the left of the line ofstitching 20 and does not at all extend through any of the body portion2. The stitching 30 is preferably located close to the stitching 20,being spaced therefrom about of an inch. The reason for folding thetriangular portion 28 upwardly is to place the edge 32, which wouldotherwise be at the bottom of the band, out of sight in the finishedgarment. This edge is the edge of the canvas and the lining and isunfinished. If it were to remain visible in the finished garment, thenthe edge would have to be tailor finished in order to present a neatappearing seam. This edge would be visible as is the edge 33 of the bandportion 12 which has not yet been sewed in place. This completes, forthe present, the sewing operation on the waistband portion 10. Thewaistband portion 10 is then folded back into a position correspondingto the position of the band 12 in Figure 3;

The waistband portion 12 is then sewed in place in the same manner aswas the waistand portion 10. This is accomplished, after the waistbandportion 10 has been folded in place, by folding the flap 21 back againstthe body portion 1, as is the flap 22 of the body portion 2 in Figure 3,and thereafter folding the waistband portion 12 in the same manner aswas previously described in connection with the waistband portion 10.After the waistband portion 12 has been sewed in place in the mannerabove described, it is turned back into position and thereafter thelower edge of the waistband is sewed in place by means of a row ofstitching indicated at 35. This stitching is'preferably machinestitching using two threads of different colors. The thread that appearson the inside of the garment is preferably of the -color of the liningmaterial 14, whereas the thread that appears on the outside of thegarment is preferably of the color of the suiting material. The verticaledges of the waistband portions 10 and 12 extend to within about of aninch of one another with the seam 20 extending in the space betweenthese edges. If it is desired to make alterations in the finishedgarment, such for instance as taking in a portion of the waistband, itis merely necessary to rip the stitching 20 from the top of thewaistband downwardly and to rip the portion of the stitching thatextends over the flaps 21 and 22. The rear body portions 1 and 2 maythen be folded to provide a longer flap thereby reducing the overallcircumference of the complete waistband. When this is done the lines ofstitching 30 and 35 are moved away from the line of stitching 20. Afterproperly folding the garment as above set forth, a new line of stitchingcorresponding to the stitching 20 is made. If desired, the new line ofstitching may terminate short of the top edge 24 of the garment toprovide a V-shaped opening at the top of the trouser back where thejoining seam of the two trouser back parts end, as indicated at 40 inFigure 6. This form of construction may also be used in the garment asinitially made if desired.

In compliance with the requirements of the patent statutes I have hereinshown and described a preferred embodiment of my invention. It is,however, to be understood that the invention is not limited to theprecise embodiment herein shown, nor to the precise steps in the methodherein described but is capable of modification and variation within thespirit and scope of the appended claims. What I consider new and desireto secure by Letters Patent is:

1. A pair of trousers the rear part of which comprises two separate bodyportions joined together along the median line of the garment to leaveoverlapping flaps, and a waistband liner comprising two strips on theinside of the garment, one strip extending along the edge of one of thebody portions and the other strip extending along the edge of the otherbody portion, the overlapping flap of each of the body portions beingfolded back with the upper end thereof between the liner and the bodyportion and the edge of the liner being also folded back to extendbetween the liner and the folded flap of the corresponding body portion,machine stitching joining the corresponding folded back portions andbeing free of the body portion of the garment and concealed on one sideby the body portion of the garment and on the other side by the exposedside of the liner strip.

2. A pair of trousers the rear part of which comprises two separate bodyportions joined together along the median line'of the garment to leaveoverlapping flaps, and a waist band liner comprising two strips on theinside of the garment, pne strip extending along the e of one of thebody portions and the other strip extending alon the edge of the otherbody portion, each 0 said strips terminating a short distance from thejoining median line, the overlapping flap of each of the body portionsbeing folded back with the upper end thereof between the liner and thebody portionand the edge of the liner being also folded back to extendbetween the liner and the folded flap of the corresponding body portion,machine stitching joining t e corresponding folded back portions andbeing free of the body portion of the garment and concealed on one sideby the body portion of the garment and on the other side by the exposedside of the liner strip.

' 3. A pair of trousers the rear part of which comprises two separatebody portions joined together along the median line of the garment toleave overlapping flaps, and a waistband liner comprising two strips onthe inside of the garment one strip extending along the edge of one ofthe body portions and the other strip extending along the edge of theother body portion, the overlaping flap of each of the body portionsbeing folded back with the upper end thereof between the liner and thebody portion and the edge of the liner being also folded back to extendbetween the liner and the folded flap of the corresponding body portion,ma-

chine stitching jo1ning the corresponding folded back portions and beingfree of the body portion of the garment and concealed on one side by thebody portion of the garment and on the other side by the exposed side ofthe liner strip, the lower free corner of the folded back portion oftheliner strip being bent upward and held in place by the machinestitching.

4. A pair of trousers the rear part of which comprises two separate bodyportions joined together along the median line of the garment to leaveoverlapping flaps, and a waistband liner comprising two strips on theinside of the garment, one strip extending along the edge of one of thebody portions and the other strip extending along the edge of the otherbody portion, each strip terminating a short distance from the joiningmedian line, the overlapping flap of each of the body portions beingfolded back with the upper end thereof between the liner and the bodyportion and the edge of the liner being also folded back and the foldedflap of the corresponding body portion, machine stitching joining thecorresponding folded back portions and being free of the body portion ofthe garment and concealed on one side by the body portion of the garmentand on the other side to extend between the liner by the exposed side ofthe liner strip, the lower free corner of the folded back portion of theliner strip being bent upward and held in place by the machinestitching. A

5. The method of sewing the waistband in a garment having two bodyforming ortions secured together longitudinally of the garment, whichcomprises sewing a waistband strip to each of said portions and sewingthe said portions together up to the waistband strips leavingoverlapplng flaps, folding the two body portions back to back alongtheir joining seam, folding one of the waistband strips back over thetwo folded body sections and folding the ed of the second strip out ofthe way of the rst strip whereby the transverse end of the first stripand the overlapping flap of its associated body forming portion are inoverlapping relation and extend outwardly of the rest of the garment,and machine stitching the two last mentioned overlapping parts together.

6. The method of sewing the waistband in a garment having two bodyforming portions secured together longitudinally of the garment, whichcomprises sewing a waistband strip to each of said portions and sewingthe said portions together up to the waistband strips leavingoverlapping flaps, folding the two body portions back to back alongtheir joining seam, folding one of the waist band strips back over thetwo folded body sections and folding the ed e of the second strip out ofthe way of the first strip whereby the transverse end of the first stripand the overlapping flap of its associated body forming portion are inoverlapping relation and extend outwardly of the rest of the garment,and machine stitching the two last mentioned overlapping parts to ether,then unfolding the sewed waistban strip and repeating the abovementioned operation for the other strip.

7. The method of sewing the waistband in a garment having two bodyforming portions secured together'longitudinally of the garment, whichcomprises sewing a waistband strip to each of said portions and sewingthe said portions together up to the waistband strips leavingoverlapping flaps, folding the two body portions back to back alongtheir joining seam, folding one of the waistband strips back over thetwo folded body sections and folding the edge of the second'strip out ofthe way of the first strip whereby the transverse end of the first stripand the overlapping flap of its associated body forming portion are inoverlapping relation and extend outwardly of the rest of the garment,and machine stitching the two last mentioned overlapping parts together,then unfolding the sewed waistband strip and repeating the abovementioned operation for the other strip, then unfolding the body formingportions, folding the free longitudina] end of the waistband strips overthe body forming portions, and stitching the free lon 'tudinal edge ofthe waistband strips to t e body forming portions.

In witness whereof, I hereunto subscribe my name this 6th day ofDecember, 1930.

MOLLIE TODES.

